Tuesday, August 21, 2012


CHAOS AND COHERENCE: REFLECTIONS IN OUR LAST DAYS IN INDIA

Mary Ann and I are entering our last three days of teaching at South India Biblical Seminary, and our last week or so of being in India. I find myself reflecting on how life here seems to move between the poles of chaos and coherence.

Take traffic on most roads, but especially on the streets of megacity Bangalore with its maybe 8 million people. In addition to buses, trucks, motorcycles, an occasional bullock cart, pedestrians, and more and more cars, three-wheeler taxis are everywhere. These agile motor cycle rickshaws slip into impossible little slots between vehicles. It looks like primary requirements for a driver are nerves of steel and excellent peripheral vision. I observed a street sign in Bangalore appealing for “traffic lane discipline.” But it wasn’t working! Traffic seems like chaos. But most of the time it works, especially if you aren’t in a big hurry to get anywhere. But occasionally things grind to a halt. Lots of vehicles switch off their engines and wait till things move again. Seeming chaos, but some level of coherence!

Take politics. These past few days have seen 15,000 plus people from NE states, who have migrated for Bangalore jobs flee the city to their home area, a couple of days away by train. All this was because of some violence in Assam (a NE state) between local tribes- people and Muslims. Retribution was threatened, rumors spread on social media, and central government appeals notwithstanding people began to flee major cities like Bangalore. India is a patchwork quilt of entities, many formerly ruled by maharajahs, put together by the British and now functioning under a federal government. There are at least 15 major language groups and multiplied other languages. It looks like chaos. But it mostly holds together. Who are Americans to critique others for occasional outbursts of violence and increasing cultural and social division?  

The tendency of westerners like us is to think we should fix the chaos and make it work like it does in America. I have begun to say to myself-If 1.2 billion people do it like this and it works at least some of the time for them, who are we to tell them they must do it differently?

Thanks to any who have waded through these thoughts typed under a ceiling fan and with gratitude for electricity on tonight.

Mary Ann and I leave from Bangalore on Sunday for a side-trip to Cochin in far-southwest Kerala state. This is where St Thomas probably came in the first century. It is where Europeans made their 16th century entrée into India. I am told Vasco Da Gama was buried in a church here. We return to Bangalore early Thursday morning, August 30 and catch an evening plane for home with an overnight in Dubai.